Question 1

Which brick suits a path?

Accepted Answer

Clinker brick is wear-resistant, frost-rated (F100+) and non-slip. Ordinary M150 building brick is cheaper but crumbles within 5–7 years. Paving slabs are more durable and easier to lay.

Question 2

Do I need a concrete base?

Accepted Answer

For pedestrian paths a 5–10 cm sand bed is enough. For a driveway, use 100–150 mm of concrete or compacted crushed stone. Without a proper base the path shifts and tilts within a winter or two.

Question 3

Should bricks be laid flat or on edge?

Accepted Answer

Laid flat (face up) uses fewer bricks, gives a bolder pattern and carries the load. On edge uses around 2.5× more bricks for a tougher surface that suits vehicles. Herringbone and basketweave are decorative patterns.

Question 4

What should I fill the joints with?

Accepted Answer

Brush a dry 1:3 cement-and-sand mix into the joints and water it in, or use a cement slurry. Top the joints up after a year. For wide joints you can even sow lawn grass — an eco-friendly touch.

Question 5

How do I stop the path from sinking?

Accepted Answer

Compact the base with a plate compactor and add edging to keep the outer rows from spreading. Give it a 1–2% slope away from the house for drainage. Every 2–3 years, check the level and top up sand under any sunken sections.

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